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One learned that the South Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

400g starchy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.