Emerging Local Talent Infusing New Life into the Skye's Food Scene
Against the backdrop of its breathtaking, craggy mountain skyline, winding roads and unpredictable weather, the Isle of Skye has traditionally attracted lovers of the wild. Over the last decade, however, the biggest island in the Inner Hebrides has been drawing visitors for additional factors – its thriving food and drink scene. Pioneering this movement are young Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a global outlook but a commitment to regional, environmentally conscious ingredients. Additionally, it stems from an active community determined to create rewarding, year-round jobs that keep young people on the island.
An Enthusiasm for Local Produce
A Skye-born restaurateur is Skye born and bred, and he’s deeply committed to showcasing the island’s larder on his menus. “If someone is coming to Skye I want them to value the landscape, but also the excellence of our offerings,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are the best available.” He honors tradition: “It is profoundly important to me to use the same produce as my predecessors. My grandpa was a lobster fisherman and we’re savoring crustaceans from the same stretch of water, with the identical reverence for ingredients.”
Montgomery’s A Taste of Skye menu lists the travel distance his products has travelled. Patrons can feast on succulent scallops hand-dived in local waters (direct from the source), and trapped in creels lobster from a nearby town (a short distance) with produce, gathered seasonings and culinary blooms from the kitchen garden and coastline (hyper-local). That connection to local bounty and growers is key. “Recently I took a young chef out with a diver harvesting scallops so he could understand what they do. We prepared scallops straight from the water and enjoyed them freshly shucked with a hint of lemon juice. ‘This is the finest scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. It is this experience that we want to offer to the restaurant.”
Culinary Ambassadors
Traveling south, in the shadow of the mighty Cuillin mountains, another food representative for Skye, Clare Coghill, operates a bustling café. This year she represented Scotland at a celebrated international food event, offering shellfish buns with Scotch-flavored spread, and innovative local dishes. She first started her café in a different city. Moving back to Skye during the pandemic, a short-term residencies demonstrated there was a market here too.
During a meal featuring a unique beverage and delicious citrus-marinated fish, the chef explains: “I take great pride that I started in a major city, but I couldn’t do what I can do here. Procuring fresh ingredients was a major challenge, but here the seafood come directly from the water to my door. My shellfish supplier only speaks to me in the native language.” Her affection for Skye’s produce, locals and landscape is clear across her bright, creative dishes, all imbued with homegrown elements, with a hint of traditional heritage. “My connection to the island's heritage and language is incredibly significant,” she says. Patrons can use informative placemats on the tables to learn a some phrases while they enjoy their meal.
A lot of us were employed in other places. We witnessed the goods turn up far from where it was harvested, and it’s nowhere near the same quality
Honoring Heritage with Creativity
Skye’s more longstanding dining establishments are constantly innovating. A boutique hotel operated by a heritage keeper in her family’s ancestral home has long been a foodie destination. The family matriarch publishes popular books on the nation's cuisine.
The culinary team continues to innovate, with a vibrant young team headed by an talented kitchen leader. When they’re away from the stoves the chefs cultivate herbs and spices in the hotel glasshouse, and gather for edible weeds in the grounds and coastal plants like sea aster and beach plants from the shoreline of a adjacent body of water. In autumn they pursue woodland routes to find wild mushrooms in the woodland.
Guests can feast on local scallops, Asian greens and peanuts in a delicious dashi; Atlantic cod with Scottish asparagus, and chef-prepared lobster. The hotel’s nature expert leads tours for activities including wild food gathering and fishing. “There is significant demand for experiences from our patrons,” says the hotel representative. “People want to come and deeply experience the island and the landscape.”
Supporting the Community
The spirits production is also contributing to support local youth on Skye, in jobs that extend past the summer period. An production head at a island whisky producer shares: “Aquaculture was a significant local employer in the past, but now the majority of positions are handled by machines. Property costs have gone up so much it’s challenging for new generations to stay. The whisky industry has become a really important employer.”
“Jobs available for aspiring distillers” was the advertisement that a recently graduated local woman spotted in her regional publication, leading to a position at the distillery. “I just took a punt,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a role in manufacturing, but it was a personal goal.” The employee had an fascination with whisky, but no formal training. “To be able to learn on the job and learn online was incredible.” Today she is a key team member, assisting in teaching apprentices, and has crafted her signature spirit using a specialty malt, which is aging in casks at the time of writing. In different facilities, that’s an honor usually reserved for long-serving employees. The tour facility and cafe employ numerous locals from around the surrounding area. “We meld into the community because we brought the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital